Exclusive interview with Chef Masanobu Yoshimizu Introducing authentic Japanese Kaiseki cuisine and food culture to China

Along with the increase in the number of tourists to Japan and the influence of anime (Japanese Cartoon) and Japanese dramas, the recognition of Japanese cuisine is increasing in China. You can find a variety of Japanese cuisines in China, from everyday dishes such as ramen, Japanese rice bowls, and izakayas, to high-end Japanese dishes and formats such as sushi, kaiseki cuisine, and Omakase, which are all popular in China. According to statistics, as of the end of 2022, there are nearly 80,000 Japanese restaurants in China, which is the country with the largest number of Japanese restaurants outside of Japan. The popularity of Japanese cuisine in China also replies on the efforts of a group of chefs who have been devoting themselves to promoting Japanese food culture. This time, we are honored to interview Mr. Masanobu Yoshimizu, the executive chef of Kurogi Shanghai, sharing with us how he brought exquisite Japanese cuisine to the Chinese people.

Opened in 2018, Kurogi Shanghai, located in North Bund, Shanghai, is known as one of the best Japanese Restaurants in Shanghai. It is the first overseas branch of the popular Japanese restaurant "Kurogi", which is known as one of the most difficult restaurants to make a reservation in Tokyo. Kurogi Shanghai is superior in every aspect. It has been listed as a diamond restaurant in the C-Trip Gourmet List for six consecutive years from 2019 to 2024, and has been selected as a black pearl restaurant by Dianping for five consecutive years from 2020 to 2024. It attracts guests from all over China, including Beijing, Guangzhou, Sichuan Province, and even gourmet food lovers from as far away as Dubai.

The Executive Chef of Kurogi Shanghai is Mr. Masanobu Yoshimizu. He was born in Tochigi Prefecture, Japan, where his father runs a traditional Japanese restaurant and acts as the chef. He has been influenced by his father since he was a child and has developed a strong interest in cooking. He has studied at the well-known Japanese-style inn "Kagaya" and the Michelin three-star Japanese Kaiseki restaurant "Kyoto Kisho", and joined Kurogi in 2012. With his respect for ingredients, fabulous cooking skills and consciousness of supreme service, he won the trust of Kurogi's founder, Mr. Jun Kurogi, and became the head of the first overseas branch. In addition to being a chef, Mr. Yoshimizu also serves as a director of Japanese Culinary Academy China, devoted to promoting Japanese food and culture in China. Due to his great contributions to enhancing the popularity and status of Japanese cuisine, he was appointed as the "Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassadors" by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries of Japan in December 2023.

As a top-notch Japanese Omakase restaurant, Kurogi Shanghai provides a space where guests can experience the essence of Japanese food culture. It is very particular about ingredients, cuisines, decoration, tableware, service, and atmosphere.

Mr. Yoshimizu attaches great importance to ingredients, which are the basis for making delicious dishes. Even though Mr. Yoshimizu uses many local ingredients, he insists on using Japanese rice, which is regarded as soul food for Japanese people. Mr. Yoshimizu believes that Japanese rice, different from the aromatic rice grown in China, is a simple but most representative ingredient of Japanese food. He always chooses different kinds of rice to make different rice dishes. For example, he would use the rare and high-ranking rice “Eyes of Dragon”, which is grown in Gifu Prefecture and known as one of the biggest size of rice grains in Japan, to make white rice. This kind of rice has a great balance of softness and chewiness, and it tastes sweeter the more you chew. When making sushi, he tends to choose Koshihikari rice, which is delicious even when it is cold. Aged rice is usually used for cooking Japanese mixed rice because it can absorb more essence of broth than new rice.

Sake is an important part of Japanese food culture. In Japan, alcohol pairing has been very common, but it is still a new concept in China. To promote it, Kurogi Shanghai has launched sake pairing menus. Each pairing sake is selected according to the features of a corresponding dish to achieve a perfect match, enhancing the taste and flavor of food. By doing so, a variety of Japanese sakes can be introduced to Chinese guests. Also, in order to allow more people to experience the authentic Japanese Kaiseki cuisine, lunch menus at more affordable prices are launched in Kurogi Shanghai.

Mr. Yoshimizu also conveyed the most valued craftsmanship of Japan through communication with guests. He told us that the co-op farmers have been constantly improving the quality of rice by trial and error to achieve the best taste and higher sweetness. Some sake breweries, like Kokuryu, customized sake cups to highlight the aroma and taste of sake. Without the persistence of these craftsmen, a chef cannot make delicious dishes, which is the enthusiasm he wants to express to Chinese people.

Because the condition and taste of ingredients obtained in China are very different from those in Japan, he has to make a lot of adjustment through trial and error. In order to find the best eel for Kaiseki cuisine, he traversed China and finally found the same species of eel as in Japan in Xiamen. He also went to Yunnan to find the best matsutake and truffles in person to ensure the aroma and quality. Since he regards freshness as the most important quality of vegetables, most of the vegetables used in Kurogi are harvested by the co-op farms in the morning and delivered to the store immediately. He believes that the freshness and features of local ingredients are irreplaceable advantages.

In terms of cooking, Mr. Yoshimizu intends to present a feast for both eyes and taste buds to convey the essence of traditional Japanese food cultures to customers. He is good at showcasing the characteristics and flavors of ingredients to show the charm of traditional Japanese cuisine. On the day of the interview, Mr. Yoshimizu used fugu’s (blowfish) ‘shirako’ (milt)" instead of cheese to make a creative Japanese-style risotto. The rich flavor and smooth texture of ‘shirako’ paired well with the rice, creating a touch of Japanese-style delicacy. Through the exquisite presentation of dishes, it creates a sense of ritual, which brings a visual impact to guests, allowing them to feel the artistic conception of Japanese Kaiseki cuisine.

Mr. Yoshimizu believes that the details, such interior design, ambiance and tableware of a restaurant, are important elements in demonstrating the beauty of Japanese food culture. Take Kurogi Shanghai as an example. The interior design of Kurogi Shanghai was designed by the world-famous Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, who created a unique space that blends Japanese tradition with modernity. All the tableware in the restaurant was shipped from Japan, and it accentuates the cuisines perfectly, allowing guests to experience the beauty of authentic Japanese food culture. The flower decorations in the restaurant are arranged by masters of Sōgetsu-ryū, which is one of the three major schools of ikebana (Japanese floral art), so that guests can enjoy the beauty of ikebana while dining.

Service demonstrating "Omotenashi" is also a feature of Japanese food culture."Omotenashi" is a unique Japanese concept of welcoming and caring for guests with warmth, graciousness, and attentiveness, and can be interpreted as "Japanese hospitality". For example, Kurogi's current Okami, referring to the hostess of high-end Japanese restaurants and inns, Junko Miya, adheres to the traditional Japanese hospitality. Dressed in an elegant kimono with a graceful smile on her face all the time, she always pays attention to the needs of guests, and provides warm and thoughtful service. She demonstrates a traditional Japanese tea ceremony and serves matcha to guests after a meal, conveying the spirit of “once-in-a-lifetime encounter”. Her service highlights the fascination of traditional Japanese culture beyond cuisine.

According to Mr. Yoshimizu's observation, as more and more Chinese tourists and businessmen go to Japan, their knowledge of Japanese food is becoming more profound. Some guests even know the characteristics of sea urchins from different regions of Hokkaido and which wholesaler has the highest quality of tuna. In the past, most Chinese people only recognized well-known sake brands, such as Dassai and Juyondai. However, they are starting to accept more local brands, such as Kokuryu, Nabeshima, Jikon and Aramasa, which are popular in Japan recently. In addition to expensive ingredients, such as sea urchin, tuna, kinki (channel rockfish) and nodoguro (blackthroat seaperchchiji), many guests are starting to be interested in various Japanese cuisines, including home-cooked meals and makanai (stuff meal). Mr. Yoshimizu sometimes makes creative dishes based on ingredients of the day and the preference of the guests. He also likes to introduce local specialties to guests, such as dishes of Ishikawa Prefecture, where he was trained to be a chef, and those of Miyazaki Prefecture, the hometown of hismaster, Jun Kurogi.

Speaking of the differences between China and Japan, Mr. Yoshimizu said that luxury restaurants like Kurogi in Japan are generally for business guests instead of family guests. However, the situation is a bit different in China. Many people choose Kurogi Shanghai for family reunion and gatherings of friends. He believes that it is wonderful to spend time with family and close friends enjoying delicious gourmet food. In addition, there are many rules for dining in Japan. For example, the order of what to eat and drink first is conventionalized. It is improper and impolite if you do not follow the rules. It is easier and simpler in China. He believes that those red tapes do not matter and what matters is that guests enjoy at ease what Kurogi Shanghai provides to them. Finally, Chinese people are warm-hearted. It is easier to make friends and get closer with them in an instant.

In order to promote Japanese food culture, Mr. Yoshimizu registered an account on Red, which is a popular SNS APP in China. He posted recipes of home-cooked dishes, such as Japanese rolled omelet, pork miso soup, and simmered beef and tofu, in the form of a short video, popularizing the essence of Japanese cuisine in an amiable approach.

Mr. Yoshimizu believes that Chinese culture and Japanese culture have a lot in common. For example, Japanese tea ceremony and Japanese porcelain are both originated from China. However, they bring a “nostalgic but novel” feeling to Chinese people by infusing the elements of Japanese culture to the tradition of China. Through the synergy of all elements and details, including ingredients, dishes, service, decoration and atmosphere, he intends to create in Kurogi Shanghai a space where guests can experience the perfect fusion of Japanese cuisine and culture.