A Fresh View on Tofu

Until not so long ago, both the availability and understanding of tofu outside of the Asian sphere was limited. However, tofu is undergoing a well-deserved renaissance, thanks to the huge interest in Japanese cuisine and the many health benefits it has been shown to have.

Tofu, which also goes by the names bean curd or soybean curd, is made from soybeans, water, and a curdling agent called nigari (bittern). The curds are usually pressed into blocks, although many other variations exist. The result is high-protein, low-fat dish with a creamy texture that is high in both calcium and iron.

Shiori Kudo has loved this quintessential Japanese food since childhood. Originally planning to become a Japanese teacher and teach abroad, during the course of her university studies she sought to learn more about Japan’s history and culture, and became increasingly fascinated with this traditional protein-packed food. Now a certified tofu meister, she has spent over a decade sharing the joy of tofu across Japan and internationally.

Kudo explains what makes it such a nutritional powerhouse. “Soybeans are very good for you, but also quite difficult to digest. Processing them by making them into tofu is one of the best ways to get all the nutritional benefits, while being easier on the stomach,” says the connoisseur, who enjoys her favorite food at least once a day. “It has been shown to help lower cholesterol, the isoflavones can support those going through menopause. As it is about 90 percent water it is a highly digestible food, which also makes it great for those who have trouble swallowing, elderly folks looking to add more protein to their diets or transitioning babies to solid food.”

Tofu and its preparation techniques were first introduced to Japan during the 700s, and for over a millennia since it has been an important source of protein for people in Japan. There are reportedly around 300 different regional variations, with the different types having distinct flavors thanks to the various kinds of beans used and local techniques. For instance, on the southern island of Okinawa they make a very firm version that is hardened using saltwater, known as shima dofu (island tofu).

However the most common types, found at any supermarket around the country, are the firm momen and soft kinu varieties.

Momen tofu is made by boiling soy milk and adding bittern so that it sets into a loose pudding-like consistency. This is then scooped into a cloth-lined mold (from which it gets its name, as momen means cotton in Japanese) dotted with holes. The mixture is then pressed so it takes on a firm consistency, excellent for pan frying, simmered dishes or a popular household favorite in Japan, spicy mabo tofu stir fry.

Kinu, or silken tofu, is made directly in a special mold that does not have holes. When made fresh by experienced tofu makers, it has a smooth consistency, delicate natural sweetness and clean flavor that is best enjoyed raw, as is most common in Japan.

In the summer a particular favorite is hiyayakko, a block of silken tofu simply topped with a bit of ginger, green onions and soy sauce, or other toppings like kimchi, snippets of dried seaweed or a touch of wasabi. It is a quick and easy meal, refreshing on hot steamy days. During the winter, warming bowls of nabe or yudofu hotpot are found on dinner tables across Japan, with chunks of tofu and other ingredients bubbling away in a savory broth.

No matter how one may prefer it, the focus is on allowing the natural flavor of the bean curd to shine, with tofu as the centerpiece of the meal.

In the United States and Europe, tofu is viewed differently, with a strong fan base among both those who have a plant-based diet, as well as those seeking to add more protein into their meals. Usually it is cooked with a generous dose of spice or flavorings, such as adding it to stir fries or intriguing options such as using it as the main ingredient for protein packed (and vegan) chocolate mousse.

“In most western countries, people expect to cook their tofu, so varieties made overseas tend to focus less on flavor and more on achieving a chewy, meat-like texture,” says Kudo. “People view it mainly as a vegan-friendly, sustainable substitute for meat, milk or eggs.”

Far from being a traditionalist, she wants people around the world to explore the possibilities of her favorite food. “It is a literal white canvas,” she laughs, “since it has such a delicate flavor, you can freely add your own favorite local toppings.” She also recommends trying fried tofu such as thick atsuage or the thinner aburaage, which is becoming more commonly available overseas and works great in stir fries or split and filled with your favorite savory ingredients. In Japan you can even find healthier burgers and donuts made with tofu!

Sadly, due to its freshness and texture, freshly-made tofu doesn’t travel well, so until recently it was difficult to find high quality tofu outside of Japan. However, thanks to improvements in aseptic packaging technology, it is now possible to eat delightfully fresh, made-in-Japan tofu outside of the country as well!

But of course, trying tofu during a visit to Japan uncovers a whole new side to the dish. “It may look simple, but just like cheese, there are many different layers, depending on the beans used, or the techniques of the person who makes it,” says Kudo.

Not sure what to try for your first fresh tofu experience? “I recommend trying yose (sometimes called oboro) tofu, as it is the basis of momen and allows you to savor the delicate sweetness of soybeans.” Just add a little soy sauce, and dinner is done and dusted!