Vallebona: London’s specialist shop discovering and sharing artisanal Japanese ingredients.

In 2018, a couple - Stefano from Sardinia in Italy and Naoko from Gifu in central Japan - visited Yamaroku Shoyu on Shodoshima, an idyllic island nestled in the Seto Inland Sea. Here, they met Yasuo Yamamoto, the fifth-generation owner and master craftsman of soy sauce, who practices a nearly forgotten art: brewing soy sauce in century old wooden barrels.

Among his products, the four-year-aged “Tsurubishio” is particularly exceptional. It undergoes a double fermentation process, resulting in a flavour that is complex, rich, and remarkably smooth. Captivated by Yamamoto's earnest approach to soy sauce making, where he is in constant dialogue with the ingredients, the couple thought this precious sauce must be introduced to the gastronomic scene in England where they live.

As they were touring the brewery, Stefano noticed the thick, sticky soy sauce in the shop shelf. It was made from the first layer of moromi aged in the wooden barrel when making 4-year-aged soy sauce. Intrigued by the product, he asked to learn more.

“We call it ‘Moromi Miso’. It hasn’t gained much popularity, so we are going to discontinue it very soon” Yamamoto replied.

“Let me taste it first!” Stefano insisted.

One taste, and Stefano instantly envisioned it paired with his ingredients.

“It pairs beautifully with 36-month-aged Parmesan cheese”

And that’s how Moromi Miso found its place on the shelves in England.

At Table@Vallebona, they don’t merely sell products; they tell stories. Their selection features items that even Japanese locals might overlook, chosen for their authenticity and the passion of their producers. “Japan is full of hidden treasures,” says Naoko. “We seek out these gems, connect with the artisans behind them, and build relationships that go beyond mere transactions. Every item at here —whether from Italy or Japan—comes from family-run businesses where love and devotion are integral to every product.”

The origin of Vallebona traces back not to London, but to a small island near Sardinia called Carloforte. In 1890, Stefano’s great-great-grandfather, Agostino Vallebona, began selling tuna bottarga, olive oils, and cheese. What started as a simple exchange of goods gradually evolved into a family business passed down through generations.

When Stefano relocated to England in 1997, he quickly recognised the potential for their products in London’s culinary landscape. Thus began his trade with Michelin-starred hotels and restaurants, continuing the family business. Perhaps it was in his blood, but his deep understanding and love for food quickly captivated top chefs in the UK. The business flourished alongside the booming London dining scene, Stefano mingled with celebrity chefs and attending exclusive events.

A turning point came in 2000 when he met his current wife, Naoko. According to Stefano, Naoko brought structure and organisation to the business, turning it into a finely tuned operation. With her influence and creative background, Vallebona expanded, supplying Italian ingredients to restaurants and providing bespoke catering services. They then launched two businesses: V2B for wholesale and Table@Vallebona for retail.

However, as Stefano was approaching 50, he began to feel thoroughly bored. By that time, many artisan products from Italy had become easily available in the UK.

Even so, they continued to make frequent trips to Japan, especially to Gifu, Naoko’s hometown. It was during one of these trips, when Stefano was grappling with a sense of purposelessness, that he was invited to an event in Kyushu showcasing Japanese ingredients. The incredible quality of products he saw there blew away his feelings of loss, opening up a new world of Japanese ingredients for him. That trip inspired him to pursue importing those ingredients from Japan to the UK.

“Our journey with Japanese ingredients began here,” Stefano and Naoko recall. “To begin with, we discussed the idea of pairing condiments with Italian cheese. In Europe, it’s quite common to compliment cheeses with flavourful fruit preserves. While searching for the perfect accompaniment, we came across something truly exciting: yuzu marmalade from Tokushima. We also got connected with a renowned kombu producer in Fukui after receiving a selection of kombu as a souvenir from our Japanese friends. Recognising the superb quality of the products, we decided to get in touch with the producer. Thankfully, we reached an agreement. Now, our shop carries around 15-16 Japanese products, and over time, we’ve handled about 50 different items.”

When asked how he selects products, Stefano says,

“The foundation of Japanese cuisine lies in seaweed and fermented products like soy sauce and miso paste. It’s much like how tomatoes and olive oil are staples in Italian cooking. For Japanese dishes, everything begins with ingredients such as kombu, wakame, and soybeans.”

He then showed us a map illustrated with the wakame production areas in Naruto and Tokushima in Shikoku, along with the types of fish that can be caught in the surrounding waters. Here, it’s clear how everything is connected. Small fish grow by eating seaweed, and then they become food for larger fish.

Vallebona’s shop offers a variety of premium seaweed products, including robust wakame, salted kombu, seaweed chutney, salad kombu, wakame salt and more.

Vallebona’s shift from wholesale to retail occurred during the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, which devastated their wholesale business. However, they managed to secure a long-vacant shop in a building that dates back to 1890, which was originally the village fire station. It stands in a prime location on High Street in Wimbledon Village, an affluent area in London, surrounded by renowned food shops. Yet, what sets Vallebona apart is the personal connection with their customers, as well as their chefs and industry clients they keep the strong bonds with.

“We tailor how we present them to each customer. Our customers come from diverse cultural backgrounds — and explaining unfamiliar Japanese foods to such a multicultural audience is a challenging task,” Stefano notes.

That’s why, Stefano says, “translating” is essential.

“For example, we call tsukudani ‘seaweed chutney’ and hitokuchi shiofuki kombu ‘salted kombu squares.’ The names are designed to evoke images that help non-Japanese people understand and imagine the products.”

These “translations” extend beyond renaming to encompass lifestyle hints also. Enjoying a morning coffee at Vallebona, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find your strong caffè served in a small guinomi sake cup; that they call “espresso cup”.

In 2021, Stefano and Naoko converted an abandoned space behind the shop, adding awnings to create a wine bar called Vineria. This was a natural development of what they initially started within the shop. Over the years, they made improvements, and in 2023, they transformed half of the wine bar into an indoor dining area with 30 seats, where guests can enjoy light meals.

“We introduce simple recipes as well. People here often think of miso as only for miso soup. So, we offer ideas like Green Beans with Miso or Minced Meat Miso.”

Currently, Stefano is planning to host cooking demonstrations in this space, though Stefano emphasises that it will be social gatherings rather than classes. He stresses that food is one of life’s great pleasures.

“In Italy, a family meal is a symbol of happiness that nothing else can replace. And it is about the careful producers behind the ingredients. But this is true in Japan as well, don’t you think?”

The name 'TABLE' in Table@Vallebona symbolises the meaningful conversations that arise when people gather around a table. Perhaps at the heart of these conversations are the stories of Japanese producers, who sacrifice efficiency and profit to create something exceptional. These artisans are nothing short of inspiring and there are still many more in Japan whose stories are waiting to be heard. Fortunately, Stefano and Naoko of Vallebona will continue to discover these precious artisans and bring their tales vividly to life.