The Development of Washoku in Singapore and One Chef’s Aspiration To Promote It On A Global Scale

In 2013, UNESCO designated Washoku as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Washoku (和食) or Traditional Japanese Cuisine, represents the harmonious blend of ingredients for a nutritious and beautifully presented meal. Harmony is essential in Washoku and this is evident in the balancing of flavours, textures and even colours. The meal aims to invoke all the senses and incorporate the basic tastes - sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. A key element of Washoku is the use of fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients. This reflects a connection to the natural environment and an appreciation for authentic regional flavours.

Seasonal ingredients are chosen as they are believed to be harvested at their peak flavour and nutritional value. The ingredients are then cooked and presented whilst employing a variety of cooking techniques. From raw preparations, grilling, and steaming to simmering and deep frying, Washoku chefs are highly trained professionals ,well versed in different techniques to enhance the natural flavours of the ingredients. Washoku is also commonly known for its unique, refined dining experience that includes an appreciation for symbolic culture and history.

Washoku has seen a boom in popularity in recent years, with the rise of Japanese restaurants offering foods like sushi, ramen, wagyu and matcha all over the world. This is especially prominent in Singapore, which has seen a steady increase in Japanese restaurants since the 1970s. The quality of Washoku has definitely improved throughout the years as well; with more restaurants offering authentic Japanese cuisine helmed by award winning chefs from Japan. Some Japanese restaurants in Singapore have also been awarded the acclaimed Michelin Star. Today, we see the emergence of fusion restaurants that employ a mix of Japanese and French or Italian cuisine. More often, Japanese ingredients are used for their high quality, and French cooking techniques are then incorporated. We also see a birth in restaurants in the form of Izakayas that are run by locally trained chefs that offer a take on Japanese cuisine that is "localised" to appeal to Singaporean taste buds. Just 40 years ago, Japanese restaurants mainly appealed to Japanese expatriates, but with the expansion of Singapore's economy, Singaporeans have now replaced the expatriates as the main consumers of Washoku in Singapore.

Chef Maetomo, who runs Maetomo Japanese Cuisine (Kaiseki & Sushi), has been at the forefront of promoting Washoku for years. In 2021, he was appointed as a goodwill ambassador to promote Japanese cuisine by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF). Chef Maetomo was first recommended as a goodwill ambassador programme by fellow chefs he met at events throughout Japan. Chef Maetomo hails from Hiroshima and is inspired by the beauty of seasonal transitions in Japan; he is a master at bringing out the finest, most delicate flavours of seasonal ingredients, and offering his customers one of the most authentic experiences when it comes to Washoku. In addition to the kaiseki courses served at Maetomo Japanese Cuisine, Chef Maetomo also runs a sushi restaurant, located within the same confines of his eponymous restaurant.

When it comes to the preparation of Japanese ingredients, Chef Maetomo explains that a lot of care and consideration is put into each step of the process. It is, in essence,a cooking process that brings out the best of the ingredients, in turn honouring the ingredients and those that have a hand in creating them. Chef Maetomo believes that whilst sauces and seasonings are important in French and Chinese cuisine, the ingredients used in Japanese cuisine are of the highest quality, so seasonings are only used in small amounts,solely to enhance the ingredients. For example, fish is lightly sprinkled with salt and left to rest to remove excess moisture, thus preserving the original flavour of the fish. As a Hiroshima native, Chef Maetomo brings in various fresh fish from the Seto Inland Sea he is also fond of bringing in Shine Muscat Grapes and Japanese Sake from the local area. As for other ingredients such as eel and Wagyu, Chef Maetomo chooses to highlight the specialties that different regions have to offer. For example, the restaurant carries eel and Wagyu from Kagoshima, which is known to produce some of the best eel and Wagyu in Japan.

Kaiseki, as Chef Maetomo explains, originates in the tea ceremony, and was originally served as a light meal before the actual tea ceremony. It is the philosophical belief that ingredients should be served at their optimum conditions.Each restaurant employs different methods, one such being fish ageing, to develop its flavours and umami. At Maetomo Japanese Cuisine, the team is well versed with this philosophy, maturing fishes to various degrees, to increase the amino acids in the fish, giving it a strong natural flavour. Additionally, a key element that is indispensable in the restaurant is their signature bonito broth, made from bonito flakes shaved fresh in the restaurant; this forms the base of their cuisine. As Chef Maetomo adds, soups made with this fundamental ingredient are a huge hit amongst customers.

As a restaurant owner in Singapore, Chef Maetomo also faces the difficulty of importing fresh ingredients from Japan. Import arrangements can be a hassle, considering how fast the market moves,chefs have to trust their local vendors to choose the best quality ingredients. Chef Maetomo, who imports fresh fish and produce from Toyosu Market, has developed his own trusted channels through the years. He has a great relationship with a middleman who is a connoisseur when it comes to picking the best ingredients. The freshest ingredients are arranged on a daily basis. A prime example is the "Kagoshima A5 Yamasan Wagyu" beef used in the restaurant. Maetomo Japanese Cuisine imports the beef directly from Kagoshima Prefecture and it is said to contain twice the sweetness and thirty times the umami as compared to other ordinary Wagyu. During the COVID-19 period, import costs soared, but thankfully they have since lowered, allowing for more accessibility to high quality ingredients. Since the end of COVID-19, there has been a boom in Japanese cuisine worldwide. Singapore in particular, has seen such a rapid increase in the number of Japanese restaurants. Locals have always had a deep fascination for Japanese foods and due to the depreciation of the Yen, more Singaporeans are looking to discover or taste Japanese dishes in restaurants both locally and in Japan. With this rise in demand, more ingredients have been made available throughout the years. Many ingredients, such as Ankimo (Monkfish Liver, were relatively rare in the local scene a few years back. However, in recent years, Ankimo has become a staple in most fine dining and casual Izakaya restaurants alike. Chef Maetomo noted that in recent years, more customers have started to request for tuna albacore and anglerfish after having tried them in Japan. Both ingredients are now readily available in Singapore due to this rise in demand. Similarly, after a boom in eel dishes a few years back, the number of people who like and demand for eel has been increasing.

Chef Maetomo explains that Singaporeans have become more open to trying “unique” ingredients due to more social media exposure and education. The number of high-quality Japanese restaurants have been increasing rapidly in Singapore. As more restaurants open, Singaporeans are better exposed to authentic Japanese cooking and ingredients. Additionally, more Singaporeans are travelling to Japan frequently, which could explain the rise in interest in Japanese foods. From the beginning of 2024 up till June, the Japan National Tourism Organization reported that a record 300,000 Singaporeans travelled to Japan, marking a significant 18.7% increase compared to the numbers from the same period last year! Many of his customers who tried albacore or anglerfish in Japan, have been requesting for such delicacies in Singapore. Another prime example is Eel or Unagi, which was rather foreign in Singapore many years ago. However, it has become such a common ingredient used in Japanese restaurants all over Singapore. Maetomo san, who is a strong advocate for introducing new ingredients to his customers, shared that while more Singaporeans are looking to discover authentic Japanese ingredients, the main issue usually lies with the supply, especially when the catch is affected by weather or typhoons. He hopes that more unique ingredients can be imported into Singapore in the near future, to allow more Singaporeans to experience and learn more about Japanese food culture.

In Singapore, there has been a small rise in restaurants specialising in Kaiseki or Kappou style dining, but the majority of high-end restaurants still focus on sushi. These kaiseki or Kappou restaurants, such as Maetomo Japanese Cuisine, are gaining quick recognition and appreciation amongst locals. Compared to sushi, it is easier to understand the appeal of the four seasons through the dishes and ingredients served in a Kaiseki meal. There are seasonal ingredients used in sushi, but Kaiseki offers a more well-rounded experience focusing on nature and seasonality. The menu changes almost monthly, and this is one of the attractive features of a Kaiseki meal. As Chef Maetomo explains, the rise in Kaiseki restaurants is still relatively slow, since a large amount of preparation is required, and a larger number of staff is needed..

Manpower, as Chef Maetomo explains, is of high importance when it comes to Washoku, especially so in Kaiseki cuisine. Chefs have to be highly skilled. Not only in their knife work but they need to have a vast breath of knowledge. From understanding ingredients, purchasing, and preparation to the various cooking methods, serving techniques and last, but not least, the culture of Omotenashi. Chef Maetomo believes that these are the fundamental requirements of a Washoku Chef; it is only when these things are in place before authentic Japanese cuisine can be created.

As a chef and owner of his restaurant, Chef Maetomo places great emphasis on educating his staff. Something that is seemingly simple, such as the preparation of dashi (Japanese soup stock), requires lots of patience and understanding. There is difficulty in training younger local chefs to learn the skills and uphold high standards required for Japanese cuisine. There is also the need for them to understand Japanese culture and relay it through their foods and service. The dashi, as Chef Maetomo adds, is a great way to teach local chefs on the values of Japanese cuisine. At Maetomo Japanese Cuisine, they use only freshly shaved dried bonito flakes. Local chefs are given a basic recipe, instructing them on the detailed cooking process. Fine tuning is required towards the end, but Chef makes it a point to ensure that the established procedures and recipes are not tweaked. The making of this simple dashi, as Chef explains, is the very essence of Japanese food culture. He is able to teach his local staff about Japanese food culture through this simple preparation and thus, takes a lot of pride in doing so.

Omotenashi in particular, is a deep-rooted culture in Japan, it means to "wholeheartedly look after guests". The term itself is a microcosm of Japan, representing the mindset of hospitality centring around care rather than expectations. Most Japanese restaurants in Singapore take pride in providing a high level of Omotenashi to their customers. Chef Maetomo firmly believes that the culture itself is highly unique to Japan, and since there are cultural differences, it is up to the Japanese staff members to accurately convey the meaning of Omotenashi to their local employees. Chef Maetomo found that it was necessary to constantly educate his local employees on the importance of Omotenashi, how to recognize and immediately respond to customer needs, in addition to basic services. Chef Maetomo adds that several of his staff members don Kimonos, a traditional Japanese cultural attire, and customers will realise that the dishware and plating techniques are gorgeous; these are all little touches, as Chef Maetomo explains, are all part of Omotenashi. Maetomo mainly uses Yakushima ware, some of which are designed by Chef Maetomo himself and brought to life with the help of his friend, the artist Mr Yoshitoshi, who crafts and develops the dishware for the restaurant. The design language and the way the dishes interact with their dishware often reflect the seasonal change and significance. Much emphasis is placed on allowing their guests to enjoy Japan not only through their foods, but also through the restaurant’s decor, dishes and service. The atmosphere and dining experience is as important as the food. Food, service, decor and mannerisms are all indispensable and Chef Maetomo firmly believes that they are able to provide Omotenashi to satisfy their customers in every aspect of the dining experience.

As the popularity of Japanese cuisine continues to increase worldwide, Chef Maetomo is determined to continue doing what he can to promote Japanese cuisine on the global stage. He hopes that more authentic Japanese cuisine can be recognized by people overseas and that the Japanese food culture can continue to flourish worldwide. In the case of Singapore, Chef Maetomo is proud that so much has been done to promote Washoku. The rise in Japanese restaurants is evidence that there is a great demand for Washoku and the standard of the restaurants themselves are increasing. He adds that he will continue to do his best to pass on his knowledge to younger chefs. Though more restaurants are opening, Chef Maetomo noticed that many newly opened restaurants feature “fusion” or “modern” type of Japanese cuisine, usually featuring the use of popular, eye-catching ingredients and also infusing local, French or Spanish touches. While encouraging this, Chef Maetomo adds that the authenticity of Japanese cuisine should be prioritised, and he hopes that the fundamental techniques and appreciation for Washoku will continue to prosper and be passed on for generations to come.