Big Plans for a Small Can: Taking Japanese Sake to the World

Some revolutionary changes are taking place in the world of Japan’s traditional alcoholic beverage. Nihonshu, more commonly called sake (though the word sake can also refer to alcoholic drinks in general), has been around since rice cultivation began some 2,500 years ago. Production methods have changed little over the years, but changing tastes and technology are now bringing the drink to a wider audience, including lovers of fine food and drink worldwide.

One notable change has been the emergence of lighter, fruitier styles that are popular among younger consumers. Another trend has been the declining shift from drinking heated sake in small cups called o-choko, to imbibing it in larger glasses at room temperature. Now, a company is transforming sake consumption by broadening sake breweries’ distribution, thus giving sake enthusiasts access to a wider array of brands.

Seishu Gen is the founder and CEO of Agnavi, a company that has recently introduced ICHI-GO-CAN, a groundbreaking system of canning sake varieties from breweries across Japan in 180ml aluminum cans. Until now, sake has primarily been sold in traditional glass bottles, typically in 720ml and 1800ml sizes.

Gen’s inspiration for ICHI-GO-CAN stemmed from his deep connection to sake, initially sparked by its association with tasty Japanese cuisine. “Good food always seemed to come with good sake,” he says. His interest was further fueled by sake’s intricate fermentation process—one of the most demanding in the world of alcoholic beverages. “The process is one of the most complex in any alcoholic drinks, and it is extremely delicate,” Gen explains. During his graduate studies, he witnessed breweries struggling with distribution challenges, which motivated him to support a friend’s brewery. However, sustainability issues, including recycling and breakage, posed significant hurdles.

Recognizing evolving consumer preferences in sake consumption, Gen seized upon the idea of smaller aluminum cans, which offer multiple advantages. Their compact size ensures the contents can be consumed at one sitting, preserving freshness without the need to store leftovers. Additionally, the cans are easily refrigerated and recycled; and they protect the contents from UV degradation.

Another benefit is that the cans allow consumers to sample various sake varieties in smaller quantities, eliminating the need to commit to larger bottles that they may not be happy with. “Sake has many regional characteristics,” says Gen, pointing out the fascinating, mysterious nature of its many varieties. “Although it’s all made simply from rice, water, and the koji mold, there are so many resulting flavors. Sake styles from breweries in regions with hard water tend to be light and dry. Those with soft water produce sweeter sake. Breweries in the south tend to produce richer varieties, while northern regions favor lighter styles. While some have a stronger rice aroma, most beginners, both in Japan and internationally, seem to favor fruity, refreshing profiles.”

Agnavi approaches breweries throughout Japan with offers to can part of their production. To date, over 100 breweries are on board, with over 170 varieties being canned and sold through ICHI-GO-CAN. “We select breweries that enrich our lineup, and some 70 percent of our products are in the more refined categories of Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo,” Gen says.

Although cans have long been a stable in beer sales, and more recently for many cocktail offerings, sake had yet to adopt this format. Gen points to the capital investment required for individual breweries to make such a shift, while Agnavi leverages an economy of scale. The company also offers collaboration on label design, for example. “The cans are proving most popular among young people,” he says. “Whether using their traditional design or coming up with something new, we can get people to recognize the labels of varieties they like and become fans of the breweries.” Some promotional collaborations include featuring popular local trains as well as characters from popular manga and anime series, such as “Moyashimon” and “Fist of the North Star.”

We asked him about the traditional practice of serving sake heated. “Some connoisseurs believe that sake with a stronger rice aroma is better that way, but that’s the next step for newcomers to Japanese sake,” Gen says. “You could put the cans in hot water to heat them, but we recommend drinking them cold for now. He also is looking for other ways of expanding drinking options, considering the recent popularity of whiskey highballs, for example. “I’m thinking of proposing recipes for using sake in mixed drinks, as cocktails,” he says.

Agnavi has begun exporting ICHI-GO-CAN products overseas, including North and South America, Southeast Asia, Europe, and other countries. With continued global interest in Japanese cuisine, Gen anticipates growth. Supermarkets in the United States, many of which feature corners selling sushi, for example, are a promising market segment. Moreover, he sees potential beyond traditional pairings, noting sake's similarity to white wine in complementing a wide range of dishes. “Sake goes particularly well with styles of cooking that bring out the flavor of the ingredients, like the cuisines of Japan, France and China’s Guangdong Province,” he says.

For those abroad who are unfamiliar with Sake, Gen encourages exploration. “Start by trying different varieties, even if it’s only once a month,” he says. “Let yourself get a feel for it by choosing different kinds of sake, from inexpensive ones to the more elegant categories. Even I am still constantly being educated in the kinds of sake being produced. It’s a unique kind of alcohol, a product of Japanese culture.” Agnavi’s ICHI-GO-CAN initiative could represent a bold step in democratizing sake consumption worldwide, blending tradition with innovation to appeal to modern palates and lifestyles.

Agnavi Website: https://agnavi.co.jp/