Take a moment to relax Japanese-style with tea and wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery)

Wagashi are traditional Japanese confectioneries that often reflect the changing of the seasons. They are rooted in the culture and customs of Japan, and have long been a part of everyday life in the country. Having tea with family and friends over tea and seasonal wagashi can be a rare moment of respite in our busy modern lives. Here, we discuss the history of these traditional confectioneries and describe the most well-known wagashi, and how to enjoy them.

The star of many wagashi is an, a sweet bean paste made from azuki beans. The quality of the an - made by simmering azuki beans with sugar - often determines the quality of the wagashi itself. The wrapping or cover of the an, for instance in confectioneries like manju and monaka (red bean paste sandwiched between wafers), is made with wheat and rice. With rice, there’s uruchimai (white rice), which is typically eaten as is, and mochigome (glutinous rice), which is typically turned into mochi. These can be processed into joshinko (white rice flour), shiratamako (flour derived from glutinous rice which has been soaked before being dried and grounded), and mochiko (flour grounded from dried glutinous rice), depending on the type of rice used. Agar, one of the ingredients used to make yokan, is made from seaweed such as agar weed. Other commonly-used ingredients in wagashi include nuts and fruits, such as chestnuts, Japanese persimmons, and walnuts, that have been eaten since ancient times. Indeed, wagashi evolved over many, many generations alongside various natural ingredients.

Wagashi are made with plant ingredients, and as such, have garnered attention as a low-fat, healthy snack in recent years. Take azuki beans, for instance. The primary ingredient in an, azuki beans are rich in protein, dietary fiber, and polyphenols, and have been considered an important source of nutrition since ancient times. The red color of azuki beans has also long been believed to ward off evil spirits. This belief is what led to the Japanese custom of eating kashi made with azuki beans, such as botamochi and ohagi (types of rice cake dumplings wrapped in bean paste), in their everyday lives. In Kyoto, they make minazuki (traditional steamed rice cake with azuki beans on top), a wagashi made from azuki beans, for the Nagoshi no Harae (summer purification rites) held on June 30.

There are many wagashi that reflect the seasons - for instance, sakuramochi, which consists of mochi wrapped in salt-pickled cherry leaves, for spring; hina arare (colorful sweet rice crackers) for Hinamatsuri (Girls’ Day); mizuyokan, a smooth, chilled type of yokan, for summer; dango and other confectioneries to eat while gazing at the moon, and kurikinton (candied chestnuts and sweet potatoes) made with freshly-picked chestnuts for fall; hanabiramochi (thin rolled rice cake filled with miso-flavored white bean paste and sweet-simmered burdock root ) to ring in the new year; and more. These wagashi can be found lining store shelves in Japan during their respective “seasons.”

There are also wagashi that have what are called kamei (kashi names), or names specific to that particular configuration of kashi. This is different from the type of kashi - for instance, yokan or monaka. Toraya, a wagashi confectionary company that has been around for about 500 years, is said to have about 3,000 varieties of confectioneries. Some of these have kamei that evoke the sceneries and seasons of Japan, or that have been named after waka (Japanese five-line poems) by aristocrats in the Heian period, historical events in China, and more. Wagashi are sometimes described as “gokan no geijutsu (art for all five senses),” and it’s not hard to see why. You first marvel at their appearance (seeing), enjoy their flavor (taste), subtle aroma (smell), and texture (touch), then hear the kamei (hearing) and imagine the “story” behind the name of the kashi.

There is a truly wide range of wagashi, from the kinds of kashi used in tea ceremonies to more commonplace confectioneries like dorayaki (red bean castella pancakes) and mitarashi dango (rice dumplings with sweet soy glaze). Confectioneries like yokan and higashi (dry pressed confectioneries) that keep well can be bought and stored at home, to be brought out for unexpected guests. As for what to drink - generally speaking, jonamagashi is said to go well with matcha green tea and gyokuro (high-grade sencha green tea), while dango and okaki (savory rice crackers) go well with hojicha (roasted green tea). They can also, however, be paired with drinks other than Japanese teas. For instance, you can pair yokan with espresso, whiskey, or sparkling wine, and castella with black tea or herb teas. Buy several different types of wagashi and try pairing different drinks with them to see what you enjoy.

Confectioneries like castella, dango, daifuku (mochi with fillings), and imoyokan (sweet potato yokan) can be made at home if you have the right ingredients. Serving your guests handmade wagashi - albeit made with simple ingredients - is sure to add some flair to your afternoon tea.

◎ See here for other articles on Japanese teas and snack recipes.
The charm of Japanese tea: enjoying the culture passed down and its wide range of uses
Welcome to the world of matcha, known for its rich aroma and strong flavor
The profound appeal of Matcha tea and Japanese tea, luring Berliners
“Matcha-Flavored Flockensahne Torte” recipe
“Sweet Red Bean Soup with Rice Cake” recipe