FOR THE LOVE OF SAKE! DEVELOPMENTS OF THE SAKE INDUSTRY IN SINGAPORE; FEATURING CHEF-OWNER GERARD ALEXIS OF OMU NOMU CRAFT SAKE & RAW BAR

Japanese Sake has seen a prominent rise in popularity in recent years. Despite Singapore's small population, the little red dot has been a key market for Japanese Sake. According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, Singapore was the 6th largest export market for Sake in 2023, and the trend is likely to continue in coming years as much is done to promote the beloved Japanese rice beverage. Consumers are more open to experiencing unique Sake-food pairings. This is evident in the growing number of non-Japanese restaurants offering Japanese Sake as part of their drink pairings.

The increasing demand for Japanese Sake can be attributed to several factors. More people, especially youths, have developed an interest in Japanese culture and cuisine. Sake is now more accessible, with a broader presence in supermarkets, retail stores, and liquor shops, such as popular outlets like Don Don Donki, Meidi-ya and even FairPrice. The annual JFOODO "Seafood Loves Sake" campaign also encourages members of the public to step out of their comfort zones and explore the pairing of Japanese Sake with seafood from different cuisines. Large scale events like Sake Matsuri and Sake Festival Singapore, which draw massive crowds, serve as excellent avenues to engage consumers and foster a deeper interest in Sake. Furthermore, Sake pairings with non-Japanese dishes have expanded, now accompanying Italian, French, and even local and regional cuisines.

When compared to the likes of the popular Korean spirits like Soju and Makgeolli, there are similarities worth nothing. Mirroring Sake’s relationship with Japanese culture, alcoholic beverages like Soju and Makgeolli have benefited from the meteoric spread of Korean culture and entertainment across the world. These drinks are often made out to be approachable and versatile, making them appealing to both casual and experienced drinkers. They are typically marketed as light-hearted, trendy, and youthful, perfect for any social setting - from dinners to lively parties. While drinking culture in Korea is deeply rooted in tradition, the promotion of these beverages on television and social media reflects a modern, free-spirited image. A similar marketing strategy could be beneficial for Japanese Sake too, with tailored approaches focusing on lifestyle and entertainment for both domestic and international markets.

It is unfortunate that the Sake market in Japan is declining, partly because of decreasing demand from younger consumers.. This has led to breweries adapting their Sake offerings to a wider, export-focused global market, positively influencing the variety of taste profiles and styles in modern Sake. This movement encompasses a range of innovations, including brewing techniques, explorations of Sake structure, acidity, aroma and flavour profiles. There is increased attention to craft, artisanal, and sustainable production methods, as well as the integration of novel styles like botanical Sakes, wine/whisky-barrel matured Sakes, and low-intervention brewing, are also part of this modern Sake movement. The movement’s success in the global market is also reflected in Singapore, as both enthusiasts and newcomers alike are drawn to the vibrant and dynamic styles and complexity of Sake, which allow for diverse culinary pairings or standalone enjoyment. This wide range of styles also opens up opportunities for pairing with global cuisines, or simply enjoying Sake on its own.

GERARD Alexis (or "Alex" for short), Chef-Owner and Sake Sommelier of OMU NOMU Craft Sake & Raw Bar, sheds light on the Sake industry. The 31 year old is well known in the Sake community and has been on the forefront in the promotion of Sake Culture in Singapore. As a certified Sake Sommelier (Sake Sommelier Association), Sake Scholar, and International' Kikisake-shi (Sake Service Institute), Alex always had an interest in Japanese cuisine and culture, having tried some Sake in a few Izakayas around Singapore. Alex’s passion for Sake was ignited by a specific label, the Shinbunnosake (Daiginjo) from Shinshu Meijo in Nagano Prefecture, which completely transformed his perception of the drink. This led him to pursue Sake at every opportunity, which further inspired him to delve deeper into the world of Sake, eventually leading to his certification as a Sake Sommelier. Inspired by a line from a poem by Dr. Kinchiro Sakaguchi, "酒によりて得がたきを得しいのちなれば酒にささげむと思い切りぬ" (Since Sake can bring the elusive within reach, it deserves my wholehearted devotion), Alex has dedicated himself to enhancing his knowledge and skills in the field. Alex strongly believes that Sake is a highly underrated beverage–“if more consumers are willing to give it a try, there is a great chance that they would fall in love with it too”. It is his mission to bring people closer to Sake and educate them in the process.

In Singapore, consumers are blessed with a large number of breweries from all over Japan offering many choices based on prefecture, brewery, food pairing and individual taste preferences. Although the language and terminology of Sake can be a barrier to some, the drink is well received by Singaporeans, who seek out new Sake labels after developing an initial interest.

Alex noted that there has been a large shift in the market, from Sake being presented in restaurants, towards the rise of boutique or specialty Sake-centric bars and retail spaces. During the COVID-19 pandemic, there was an increase in Sake drinkers and enthusiasts in Singapore. This was spurred by the rise in home drinkers and online orders, allowing consumers to try out a wider range of Sake labels. The drink’s demand, driven by an increase in Sake drinkers, accelerated the founding of many Sake focused bars, such as OMU NOMU Craft Sake & Raw Bar, a clear indication that the Sake industry's efforts are positively influence consumer confidence and trends. The rise also reflects how consumers are becoming more knowledgeable about Sake. The rising availability of styles present in Sake shops and distributor portfolios, such as Namazake, Muroka Nama Genshu, and Kimoto/Yamahai is a testament to this. The vibrant and growing community of Sake drinkers and enthusiasts in Singapore is passionately, actively exploring new varieties, and sharing their experiences, making a significant impact on the market. Though individual contributions are small, their collective impact cannot be overlooked.

Alex's first restaurant, OMU NOMU Craft Sake & Raw Bar opened in January 2022 amidst the COVID-19 pandemic. Their mission has always been to promote Craft Sake in Singapore, offering guests the opportunity to explore, learn, and understand more about Craft Sake and its specialties. That is why OMU NOMU keeps its Sake list small and rotates weekly, advocating for accountability, transparency in Sake service and storage, and employing knowledgeable Sake Sommeliers.

OMU NOMU supports small breweries, seasonal Sake selections, and small-batch brewing, from Muroka Nama Genshu (unfiltered by charcoal, unpasteurized, undiluted) styles, traditional Yamahai and Kimoto styles, to ancient styles like Bodaimoto and Jukusei-shu, OMU NOMU is also a proud representative for the Japan Craft Sake Breweries' Association, a collection of 9 nano-craft breweries from across Japan, brewing the most creative forms of craft Sake expressions, including botanical Craft Sake, Doburoku, and Hatsuga-genmai Koji Sake (sprouted brown glutinous rice koji). They are also the only Sake Bar to serve and promote Doburoku in Singapore, after realising that no one in Singapore had picked up on that genre of Sake.

As a sommelier, Alex has a particular fondness for Craft Sake and was initially intrigued by Doboroku, an opaque, porridge-like unpressed Sake. Despite Doburoku being the precursor to the more refined styles known today, home brewing remains illegal in Japan. Alex, who is a fan of this genre, serves some unique Doburoku labels in OMU NOMU. He believes that their efforts in Singapore, have caught the attention of the Doburoku Lovers' Association in Japan, which invited Alex to give a talk on Doburoku overseas promotional efforts in 2023.

Alex emphasises the vital role of local Sake distributors, believing they are the heart of the industry, and works closely with them to select and import Sake. This symbiotic relationship also affords OMU NOMU the discretion to be selective with the Sake labels they serve. Besides sourcing and importing labels not commonly available in Singapore, Alex collaborates with the Japan Craft Sake Breweries Association to bring innovative offerings from nano-breweries, whose small seasonal batches make it challenging to regularly import. Coordinating monthly shipments is challenging but essential to showcasing these brews, a task that requires constant communications between OMU NOMU and the breweries. Despite the challenge, Alex enjoys the process and ensures everything runs smoothly for his customers.

OMU NOMU is currently the only Sake bar in Singapore that offers a weekly rotational Craft Sake program. The program creates a sense of novelty for guests as there is always anticipation for new Sake to explore with every visit. This works well for the OMU NOMU team as they are constantly exposed to new Sake, facilitating hands-on learning for staff members. Additionally, a “Sake by the glass” program allows customers to sample various Sake without overcommitting to a bottle, a concept born from Alex’s own struggles in accessing diverse Sake options during his journey to becoming a Sake Sommelier.

In addition to the glass program, OMU NOMU also offers a micro-flight series, which is unique to the Craft Sake Bar. The micro-flights are designed for customers to explore themes and topics from a taste perspective. What is the difference between Nama and Hiire Sake? Arabashiri, Nakadori, and Seme? Yeast #601 vs #701? Micro-flights are an effective way to guide customers in better understanding the themes. Each flight can also be tailored specifically to each customer. Through their experience, they have found that guests, especially Sake beginners, are able to relax and enjoy the curated Sake line-up, whilst having conversations with staff members to better understand the drink. According to Alex, their curated Sake Journey program is the most effective and popular strategy for creating the desired atmosphere at OMU NOMU.

Craft Sake embraces traditional brewing methods but distinguishes itself by incorporating new and traditional ingredients and techniques beyond the strict regulations of traditional Sake brewing. At OMU NOMU, their Craft Sake list showcases 10-15 labels of Sake, Doburoku and craft styles. They select their Sake with great care, paying close attention to seasonality and taste profiles. Tasting notes are also handwritten for every label on the menu. Naturally, they serve Sake by the bottle and by the glass, allowing guests to taste a broad variety. The list features the 2 facets of what defines Craft Sake. First, Craft Sake embodies the more generalised understanding of the term–small batch, small breweries, experimental, retro, low-intervention and technically skilful Sake. In Japan, this is often referred to as "jizake (地酒)", in reference to these artisanally hand-crafted brews. Secondly, Craft Sake refers to brews under the new licence type that began in 2021. Whilst all Japanese sakes fall under a "nihonshu (日本酒)" brewing licence, the Craft Sake movement also includes brews under a "sonota jozo shu (その他醸造酒)" licence. Whilst the licence means "other brewed alcohols," to the Japan Craft Sake Breweries Association, it presents opportunities for new frontiers of what Sake is and can be for a new generation.

Alex, whose passion for cooking predates his love for Sake, curates OMU NOMU’s menu with a focus on how each dish complements their rotational Sake offerings. Their menu, with standout dishes, are carefully considered through the lens of Sake compatibility.

Naturally, it has been challenging for Alex, considering their Sake program involves rotational Sake which includes quirky Doburoku, funky natural Sake, and other technically complex styles. The congruence between Sake and food is a challenge that they are always trying to achieve at OMU NOMU.

Dishes like their Hoho-Niku Manju, affectionately nicknamed 'Tuna Cheek Sliders' by guests, are heavily influenced by the Craft Sake offerings, which are often fuller-bodied and heavier in acidity. Charcoal-grilled tuna cheeks with a demi-glaze and house-made braising-style sauce pair beautifully with heavy-bodied, oxidative Sakes like Mizumoto, Bodaimoto, Kijoshu, and aged Sakes. OMU NOMU's Chizuyaki, featuring charcoal teppan-grilled Provolone cheese and Garlic Sake Hamaguri, is designed to complement Kimoto and Yamahai style Sakes, leveraging shared qualities such as lactic acid, nuttiness, and umami. Their Flamed Edamame, charcoal-fired single-origin edamame tossed in lemon butter, adds a smoky, charred aroma and gentle acidity, making it a versatile match for almost any Sake type on their menu, especially Muroka Nama Genshu and Namazakes. Even their shari, the vinegared rice in sushi, is enhanced to harmonise with their Sake list, featuring their house-blend of red rice vinegar for improved body and flavour.

Alex's favourite, the Doburoku, has a versatile texture that opens up exciting possibilities for food pairings; it can mellow spicy dishes or complement creamy dairy products like butter or cream. For example, their Spicy Salmon Handroll, with its creamy, slow-burning spice, pairs excellently with Doburoku.

With regard to botanical craft Sake, Alex recalls a Craft Sake he tried from Haccoba, called the Tanigaki no Okan; a three-way collaboration between Haccoba Craft Sake Brewery, Tanigaki (a Hyogo based izakaya with a focus on local ingredients) and Takasaki no Okan (one of Tokyo's hottest warm Sake pairing dining institutions). It's a Craft Sake made by fermenting rice with the lees of Tanigaki's Sansho Lemon Sour. When warmed up as it should be, that subtle peppery spice, juicy acidity and generous sweet and umami rice expression complemented OMU NOMU's Marrowbone, their modern Japanese take on the steakhouse classic. Charcoal grilled, the combination of smoke and fat is made richer and more robust after broiling with their triple miso sauce, garnished with tempura bits, chopped shiso (perilla) leaf and katsuobushi (bonito) flakes for balance and depth.

Alex asserts that he opened OMU NOMU as a safe place for both Sake beginners and enthusiasts to explore and challenge paradigms surrounding the modern Sake movement. In essence, they pride themselves on the accountability in their tasting notes, storage and service, while also striving to add value to already experienced Sake enthusiasts. This is in line with their belief that increasing consumer confidence in navigating Sake is key to industry growth and development.

At OMU NOMU, a diverse range of local guests from their 20s to 60s come to experience Craft Sake, with a significant portion in the 30-45 age group. Alex recognizes the importance of appealing to Generation Z, whose drinking trends differ from previous generations. Craft Sake like Doburoku was not initially a strategy to reach out to locals, but it has seen a rise in popularity, especially among a younger audience. Craft Sake's ethos–freedom of brewing and expression–is particularly relevant here. Most labels use botanicals and auxiliary ingredients with a slightly lower alcohol content, preserving the core taste profile of Sake. This serves as an effective gateway, helping to break down barriers and bridge gaps, while easing younger drinkers into the expansive world of Sake. Over the past 2 years, OMU NOMU has cultivated a growing community of Craft Sake and Doburoku enthusiasts, who frequently come together to celebrate their shared interest over a glass or two.

In addition, OMU NOMU collaborates with Craft Sake breweries locally and in Japan, to adapt Craft Sake to local tastes. For instance, they have collaborated twice with Konohanano Brewery in Asakusa, Tokyo to create two Thai Milk Tea (Red & Green Thai Tea) Doburoku versions, appealing to the local palate and local food pairings. OMU NOMU will also collaborate with Orchid Craft Works, a local Sake Brewery to create a Pandan Doburoku, giving Craft Sake a truly local touch while showing their support for the sake brewery scene in Singapore.

To engage a broader audience, OMU NOMU also employs a mix of social media tactics on both their Instagram and TikTok pages. By balancing fun, trendy content with educational videos, they break down the perceived seriousness of a Sake Bar, presenting themselves as both approachable and knowledgeable. This strategy has successfully drawn the attention of younger audiences, helping them discover an interest in Craft Sake. Additionally, the OMU NOMU team participates regularly in Sake focused events such as Sake Matsuri, or Sake Sake, to reach out to new circles of Sake enthusiasts. The regular community-driven Sake Bottle Share event is also a great platform for like-minded and eager Sake drinkers to share their thoughts on Sake trends.

The Sake culture will continue to develop in Singapore as trends come and go. Alex firmly believes that the Sake market in Singapore will be heavily affected by global trends, and will be especially sensitive to micro-changes in the Japanese scene. This is influenced by the increased frequency of travel to Japan, greater awareness and education, and distributors and consumers being more interconnected than ever before. This heightened sensitivity could lead to quicker adaptations in local Sake offerings, better aligning with evolving consumer preferences. Additionally, following global youth trends, the average alcohol content of Sake is expected to decreases slightly over time as well; this is a pattern that has been seen in several breweries, and many more may follow suit.

The future of Sake in Singapore looks bright, with more craft and specialty Sake expected to enter the market. As distributors focus on modern and retro styles, as well as more experimental brewing techniques, Singaporeans may see a growing variety of premium and boutique Sake. Depending on the import and storage costs, Sake prices may increase, however it is more likely that the expanding Sake market will lead to highly competitive pricing or price wars between Sake brands that benefit consumers. One way or another, the continued growth of the industry promises more exciting options for Singaporean Sake drinkers.

Under Alex's guidance, OMU NOMU will also do its part to facilitate the Sake industry's steady and sustainable growth. The company plans to launch a new initiative called "Sake School", a workshop program designed for Sake beginners, enthusiasts and aficionados alike, complete with collectible collar pins for each of the various masterclasses. During the course, participants will dive deeply into various Sake-related topics, with both theoretical and practical sessions. The goal is to provide a comprehensive, well rounded education, encouraging participants to engage their 5 senses to explore, identify and evaluate Sake.

Topics include “Classifications in Sake: Futsu-shu to Junmai Daiginjo – Rice Milling, Aru-ten vs Junmai, Applications and Occasions”, or “Stylistic Choices of Sake Making (Pt. 1): Muroka, the various types of Nama, Genshu and Hiire”, or “Stylistic Choices of Sake Making (Pt. 2): Kimoto, Yamahai, Bodaimoto, and the various types of Nigori”, or “Doburoku Making Workshop: Experience the fundamentals of Sake and Doburoku making through home-brewing” and so on.

Current efforts to educate the public have been impactful and have made significant strides in raising awareness, but Alex asserts that much more can be done. In Singapore, where alcohol can be quite expensive, purchasing Sake can feel like a gamble for many consumers. More detailed information and education is needed in order to boost consumer confidence, allowing them to make more informed choices. Alex believes that it is important to educate people on the different styles of Sake (E.g. Namazake, Kimoto, Honjozo, Kijoshu etc), the nuances of Sake's seasonality which affects its taste profile, how to store Sake, and how to appreciate well-stored Sake.

Additionally, such education needs to address and correct misconceptions about Sake, such as the belief that lower rice polishing rates always equal better quality. Educating consumers about various Sake types, including the Tokutei Meisho classifications (特定名称酒), and their suitability to different events and food pairings will help demystify these aspects. Storytelling about Sake’s origins, including the impact of local ingredients like rice, water hardness, and even yeast programs and local food culture, can enrich consumers’ understanding. Knowledge about Jizake (local Sake) is another key strategy in overcoming language barriers and inspiring consumers to explore sake from different prefectures with more confidence and curiosity.

The team at OMU NOMU aims to stay at the forefront of Japan's modern Sake trends, introducing new and interesting brews to the local market. They are already in talks with the Japan Craft Sake Breweries Association to brew new Craft Sake in late 2024. Additionally, OMU NOMU also looks forward to hosting more craft breweries for workshops, pairing dinners, sake parties, and launch events. Despite economic challenges such as a weaker yen and rising costs leading to Japanese restaurant closures in Singapore, the quality of Sake has remained strong, with consumer support keeping the market steady. Alex is positive that the market will continue to thrive in the next few years and his team is committed to doing their utmost to help consumers navigate the world of Sake. The OMU NOMU team aspires to see the industry host larger-scale industry events, increasing collaboration among partners, and closer work with JETRO to promote and educate the public about their one true love, Sake.