The Evolution of the Introduction of Japanese Cuisine in France and Current Trends

The history of Japanese cuisine in France dates back to the early 20th century. However, this cuisine remained primarily accessible to those fortunate enough to travel to Japan or live in Paris, which gave them access to the few existing restaurants, including Takara, which opened in 1963. A significant step forward was taken in the 1980s. Japanese restaurants, whose major clientele was previously made up of Japanese expatriates, began to establish themselves in larger numbers, and the Toraya pastry shop - an institution in the Land of the Rising Sun - opened a Far-Eastern eatery of exquisite elegance as early as 1980. Matsuri Sushi (which now has thirteen restaurants in France) was founded in 1986 by a Franco-Japanese couple, and Japanese restaurant chains managed by Chinese residents in France also emerged during this period. Other French brands like Sushi Shop (established in 1998, now with 135 outlets in ten countries) followed suit. However, most of these chains offered more or less the same menus, consisting mainly of salmon sushi and beef skewers with cheese (specially invented to suit French tastes), accompanied by instant miso soup. This was certainly not the appropriate treatment for Japanese cuisine, but the French understanding of Asian cuisines in general was still rudimentary. While a few Japanese products could be purchased in Paris, it was difficult to find them in provincial cities, and Asian grocers usually offered sweet soy sauce, cooking sake, and instant noodles at best.

During this time, culinary exchanges between the two countries continued, although the results were not immediately apparent. In the 1970s, after being invited to Japan by the Tsuji culinary school, French chefs began to develop a keen interest in Japanese cuisine - an interest that may have even helped trigger the Nouvelle Cuisine movement.

In the 1980s, the number of young Japanese chefs training in French restaurants in France increased, and their presence allowed French chefs to discover Japanese condiments or kitchen utensils specific to Japan.

This trend further evolved in the 2000s. At that time, young Japanese talents decided to settle in France to open their own French-inspired Japanese restaurants. The French who tasted their cuisine discovered that the delicate flavors associated with the spirit of Japanese cuisine were also evident in French cuisine, sparking an interest in Japanese gastronomy in general. Today, it is not uncommon to see French gourmet restaurants run by Japanese chefs earning stars, and this trend shows no signs of stopping.

At the national level, however, the new trend emerging over the past decade is popular cuisine. It is primarily supported by the increasing number of people learning Japanese, having visited Japan, and having experienced daily life there. University students, as well as French chefs, among others, sometimes go to Japan to train and discover local culinary culture. It is these individuals who, upon returning home, open bakeries offering shokupan, izakaya-style bistros, or produce artisanal miso or French sakes, both in Paris and in provincial cities.

The number of French travelers to Japan is also increasing. They discover dishes previously unknown in France, belonging to popular cuisine and accessible to tourists. Ramen, udon, okonomiyaki, omurice, kara'age, Japanese curry... The snacks they buy in konbini or supermarkets can help familiarize their tastebuds to a new culinary repertoire: onigiri or even sando (especially tamago-sando, heretofore unknown in France) have actually become the trendiest new Japanese-style sandwiches of late.

Ramen has been a well-known dish for about a decade. Not only are there more restaurants offering this type of noodle in Paris and other major cities, but there are also over forty varieties of instant noodles available, demonstrating the popularity of this dish throughout France.

This trend in Japanese cuisine is closely related to a deeper understanding of Japanese culture in France. Initially captivated by kabuki, nō, and high literature – traditional artforms seen as quite remote from their own – today's French people more spontaneously embrace popular culture, bringing them closer to the everyday lives of the Japanese: manga, television series, pop music... Moreover, among the products that have entered the French culinary scene, several have been featured in fiction, such as dorayaki in the film "Sweet Bean" or the little dishes accompanying sake in the manga “Shin'ya Shokudō.”

This enthusiasm for Japanese cuisine is also reflected in the widespread publication of cookbooks (sometimes written by French authors adapting recipes for the French palate, sometimes by Japanese residents in France who understand French tastes), and increasingly by translations of Japanese cookbooks.

These publications go hand in hand with the more widespread commercialization of Japanese products in France. In the past, even if one wanted to prepare Japanese dishes at home, it was difficult to find the ingredients if one did not live in Paris. But today, several websites like Nishiki-dōri, Kioko, or Umami offer a wide range of Japanese specialties and kitchen utensils online. Natural food stores also offer soy sauce, sesame oil, round rice, tofu, and sometimes even gomasio or seaweed because these have become indispensable to fans of healthy cooking.

Thus, it is now easier to cook at home for those who wish to "eat Japanese" but cannot find restaurants nearby, and this also contributes to making Japanese cuisine popular throughout France. There is even a series of cookbooks reproducing dishes that appear in manga, which has sold tens of thousands of copies. Nowadays, it is not uncommon for teenagers to prepare yakisoba or matcha milkshakes for their parents on Sundays.

Another trend that has familiarized the French with Japanese cuisine is the appearance of bentos. The French love to hear that in Japan, mothers prepare bento boxes shaped like mascots for their children, or that they can buy bentos with local flavors during their travels.

This word means two things: container (box) and content (food), and in both cases, it perfectly suits the times. Some even acquire pretty bento boxes made in Japan to carry their snacks, even ones that are not necessarily Japanese. These boxes also pique French interest because they meet the ecological needs of today's society; indeed, the container and utensils can be reused.

Bentos sold in restaurants or delicatessens are also popular. Nutritionally balanced, they are as pleasing to look at as they are to eat. French media even mention the existence of ekiben in Japan, bentos with regional specialties that can be bought at train stations. Furthermore, certain ekiben have been available for purchase at Gare de Lyon in Paris. During the Covid era, the term "bento" became commonplace as, among takeaway options, these Japanese-style lunchboxes were evidently the most fitting for home consumption, even when served cold, as they retained both taste and texture.

Among "Japanese products" in vogue in France, the most well-known is undoubtedly the mochi ice cream. Today, when the French talk about "mochi," it mostly refers to a product where ice cream is wrapped in sweet rice dough. As with sushi, the British company Little Moons or French brands such as Tiliz or Exquis Mochi have greatly contributed to popularizing mochi.

One might argue that these mochi are merely Japanese in name, given their fillings of coconut milk, mango ice cream, or chocolate ice cream instead of traditional red beans. Nonetheless, they undoubtedly contribute to broadening the community of Japanese cuisine enthusiasts, acting as an introduction—thanks to their wide availability and reasonable prices—to subsequently spark curiosity and motivate individuals to explore authentic daifuku in Japanese restaurants or artisanal Japanese pastry shops like "Tomo" or "La Maison de Mochi."

Onigiri is also among the dishes that appeal greatly to the French. In the Land of the Rising Sun, specialized onigiri shops have been popping up for almost a decade, and it is a dish that people can't stop talking about; "luxury onigiri" using original ingredients have been invented, and an onigiri shop in Tokyo even appears in the Michelin Guide. This trend has not left foreign countries indifferent, as onigiri can now be found in supermarkets, stands in major train stations, and airports in France. Specialized onigiri stores have also emerged, and it is now possible to order them in izakaya-style restaurants. The reasons for its success are diverse: gluten-free, low in calories, the variety of its flavors caters to vegetarians, vegans, or others on special diets, and it allows for the creation of flavors that resonate with the French palate such as tuna mayo, chicken mayo, beef teriyaki, salmon cheese... It is also worth noting that sushi had already paved the way for the popularization of rice consumption, thus facilitating the trend of onigiri.

These fashionable dishes are also gaining popularity in other European and Asian nations. Behind the trend of any dish, there are numerous factors at play. With information swiftly circulating through social networks, it's entirely conceivable to witness a Japanese product, popular in Japan, suddenly become a trend abroad, or witness the unexpected rise of a dish in Japan. Nevertheless, this is a good sign because those who were not necessarily interested in Japanese culture until now will be able to discover it. It is therefore entirely legitimate to hope that the number of French people passionate about Japanese cuisine will continue to rise, and that they will buy Japanese products or visit restaurants that best suit their style and budget.