MISO

UMAMI 101

Miso, soy sauce, mirin sweet seasoning, and rice vinegar are known to be indispensable seasonings in Japanese diet. These seasonings are produced by fermenting microorganism called koji fungus. Its unique, rich flavor is featured in dishes throughout the four seasons in Japan. The seasonings particularly crafted by the hands of the artisan not only enrich the flavor of the dish, but also can contain less additives. They are delicious and make your body happy. This section introduces miso among these fermented seasonings.

About
Miso

History of miso

Miso is a solid fermented seasoning produced from koji, salt, and soybeans.

The ancestral miso was brought to Japan from overseas during the Kamakura era (*1) was refined over time to suit the taste of the Japanese people resulting in the current seasoning that is rich in UMAMI and possesses a savory aroma. Japanese miso is frequently made from KOJI from either rice, barley, or soybeans. Miso was originally made at home.

(*1) Japanese historical periodization. It indicates approximately 150 years from 1180 to 1336.

Characteristics unique to Japanese Miso

As in miso soup, the culture of dissolving miso in the hot water is unique to Japan.

Miso is a seasoning which boasts regional flavors: koji from barley is used in the Kyushu areas which has less rice crop and miso is aged longer in colder areas. In the Tokai area (*2) located in the center of Japan along the Pacific coast, a uniquely flavored miso made from soybeans and salt is often consumed.

(*2) A region in Japan. Japan is divided mainly into the Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto, Chubu, Kinki, Chugoku/Shikoku, and Kyushu regions.

Uncompromising work of the artisans

Most of the major manufacturers have mechanized the miso making process but there are still some breweries where they scoop miso and pack it in barrels by hand.

Since the domestic market share for major miso manufacturers ranges from 10-30%, it indicates that the culture of making miso in small breweries in each region still continues.

Health benefits

Prevention of diabetes and blood pressure control can be expected from a substance called melanoidin which is contained in miso.

An abundance of dietary fibers is also contained in miso, which helps regulate gastrointestinal functions. It is believed that eating a bowl of miso soup for breakfast raises the body temperature and enhances the immune system.

MISO makers’ aspirations

Miso is indispensable in the Japanese diet culture. What goes through miso makers’ minds and what do they do daily to make flavorful miso? We interviewed Mr. Shintaro Asai, the representative of MARUYA HATCHO MISO where he continues to make hatcho miso which has been made for generations in Okazaki, Aichi.

An artistic miso making method with delicately piled stones created during peaceful times

Please tell us about the traditional miso making method treasured by MARUYA HATCHO MISO.

Asai:
Hatcho miso derives from the name of a place “HATCHO-CHO (town)” in Okazaki, Aichi. It is called soybean miso, which is unique in the Tokai region and made exclusively from soybeans, salt, and water. After a total of 6-tons of miso is placed in a artisan stomp on it with their feet to remove air. Then, approximately 500 stones, which is 3-tons of weight, are piled on top to slowly age the miso.

The way the stones are piled looks amazing. What kind of effect does it have on miso making?

Asai:
Firstly, these stones are not randomly piled. Artisans check the size of each stone and pile them up one by one. Artisans use the Master and Apprentice system, where the master is in charge until he retires. This is a method which has been passed down from generation to generation and has not changed since the Edo period (a period classification in Japan which lasted from 1603 to 1867).

The miso becomes fermented over time. It swells in summer and contracts in winter. miso’s movements are absorbed by the piled stones to maintain a stable condition at all times. In that way, the miso slowly circulates under the stones. Since there are some small stones among 500 of them, fermentation allows the small stones to move around. When you listen on a quiet night you can hear the stones making a sound. This is not the most efficient method, but taking our time allows us to continue to make flavorful miso.

How does the flavor change when miso is made in wooden barrels?

Asai:
Wooden barrels are special ordered and are over ten centimeters in thickness. Since they are wood, the difference from the ambient temperature slowly seeps in and the condition at the center of aging the miso and outside environment are maintained. By doing so koji fungus inside of miso helps add even more flavors.

Our company owns more than 200 wooden barrels, and their lifespan exceeds 100 years. We hadn’t had them made in a long time, but we started asking a wooden barrel artisans to make more 20 years ago. The wooden barrel artisans in fact announced the discontinuation of his business 10 years ago, but we didn’t want him to retire, so we made additional orders. Eventually his apprentice decided to take over his business and now we order the barrels from him. I think it is crucial to think of miso making as well as of the craftmanship of the wooden barrels as something that should be taken into consideration over the long run to protect them.

Please tell us the best way to enjoy miso and recipes recommended by MARUYA HATCHO MISO.

Asai:
In the past, in Tsukiji, Tokyo, people baked miso and then and ate the bits they scraped up using chopsticks as something to nibble on when drinking SAKE. Since hatcho miso has a distinctive flavor, when it is paired with game meat, such as boar and venison which also have peculiar flavors, miso neutralizes the meat’s gamey flavor and makes it easier to eat.

The sodium contained in miso accounts for only 10% of the total volume. Therefore, we recommend using miso as a substitute for salt. It can also be substituted for salt for dipping Tempura and meat dishes. There is a product where hatcho miso is turned into powder. Since hatcho miso is characterized by its distinctive cheese-like flavor, the powdered product is easy to pair with western cuisines. We heard from a pâtissier in Manhattan that he liked to sprinkle the hatcho miso powder over ice cream.

Lastly, please tell us what you’d like to promote to people overseas.

Asai:
In Europe hatcho miso is well accepted since it has a flavor like cheese made from an animal-derived protein. It is especially popular among people who are on macrobiotic diets. Hatcho miso is becoming known to be used as a spice in fusion cuisines as well as in Japanese cuisine.

We continue to make miso utilizing the fungus living in the brewery. The reason the delicate method of piling stones remains in use even now is because Japan was not disrupted by conflict for a long period of time. There was a period miso making was halted during the war, but the traditional miso making method has been successfully handed down. We’d like everyone to experience such Japanese history by eating our miso.

MARUYA HATCHO MISO